To the untrained eye, Nam Dinh may seem like an ordinary province tucked away in the Red River Delta. Known for its picturesque churches and agricultural landscapes, Nam Dinh’s historical significance cannot be overlooked. However, the province’s true claim to fame lies in its contribution to Vietnamese cuisine: the legendary beef noodle soup known as phở bò.
A Vietnamese Breakfast Staple
Legends and myths color many aspects of Vietnamese history, and phở is no exception. Considered the country’s most famous dish and a culinary export of great success, phở has become a breakfast staple in the capital city of Hanoi.
From the crack of dawn, phở stalls line the sidewalks of Hanoi, enveloped in a cloud of steam. Each bowl is meticulously crafted to order, with fragrant broth poured over soft rice noodles and tender slices of meat. Chopped herbs, chives, and an assortment of condiments are added to customize the flavors to each diner’s liking. A visit to Vietnam would be incomplete without savoring this quintessential dish.
The Journey from Nam Dinh to Hanoi
While Nam Dinh is believed to be the geographical birthplace of phở, its spiritual home unquestionably lies in Hanoi. The historical and cultural intersection of the city made phở immensely popular.
Phở’s history traces back to the late 19th century, a time when French colonialism flourished, increasing the demand for beef in Vietnam. Consequently, an abundance of beef bones became available, which vendors from China and Vietnam utilized to enhance the flavors of their Nam Dinh-style broth.
The Evolution of Pho
Over time, phở gained traction in Hanoi, transforming from a simple noodle soup called xáo trâu—made with water buffalo meat and rice vermicelli—to a delicate and balanced creation. The substitution of buffalo meat with beef, the addition of round rice noodles, and the refinement of the broth’s flavor resulted in the classic Hanoi phở that we know today.
Migrant workers from the Chinese provinces of Yunnan and Guangdong were particularly fond of this new version, as it reminded them of dishes from their homelands. Vietnamese locals, having developed a taste for beef, also became enamored with this evolving delicacy. By the 1930s, it was common to find gánh phở—roaming vendors carrying mobile kitchens on bamboo poles—within the bustling streets of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.
Pho: An Icon of Vietnamese Culture
Phở has become deeply ingrained in the Vietnamese psyche. Poet Tu Mo once celebrated phở in his poem “An Ode to Pho,” praising its subtle flavors and its ability to delight people from all walks of life, regardless of their social status.
Despite the country’s division in 1954, when phở migrated south along with millions of northerners, its essence remained intact. Chefs in the southern regions started experimenting, adding their own touch by sweetening the broth and expanding the array of garnishes. This resulted in a culinary “broth-off,” with each region proudly showcasing its unique phở creations.
While debates over Vietnam’s best phở continue, there is no denying that the dish has remained true to its origins. Phở lovers can choose from various beef cuts, including rare beef (tái), flank (nạm), brisket (gầu), tripe (sách), tendon (gan), and meatballs (bò viên). The introduction of chicken phở (phở gà) in 1939 caused a slight stir, but overall, phở has retained its original essence.
Pho: A Dish of Constant Innovation
Nevertheless, phở is not a static dish. Some young chefs in Vietnam are exploring new variations, such as using brown rice noodles or creating fresh phở noodle rolls. Others are pushing the boundaries further, like Anan Saigon, which unveiled a $100 phở with luxurious ingredients like truffle oil, wagyu beef, and foie gras. And beyond Vietnam, international chefs are incorporating unconventional additions, such as crawfish and sous vide beef, in their own interpretations of phở.
Today, the slow-cooked phở broth is crafted using beef bones, flank steak, oxtails, charred onion, charred ginger, and an array of spices. Chicken phở remains an equally popular alternative to the original. In the north, garnishes are kept simple, with fresh chili slices, lemon wedges, and a few herbs. In the south, the phở leans towards sweetness and offers a wider variety of options. In Central Vietnam, you can even find phở topped with poached eggs.
As one of the world’s classic noodle dishes, phở has earned its rightful place in the culinary hall of fame.