Vietnam’s national dress, the Ao Dai, is not just a piece of clothing; it’s a striking symbol of beauty that represents the rich history and heritage of the country. Over centuries, the Ao Dai has evolved, transforming from regal attire to a practical and fashionable outfit for both men and women. In this article, we’ll dive into the story of the Ao Dai, explore its modern styles, learn when to wear it, decipher its colors, and even offer tips for making your own.
The Story of Ao Dai
The origins of the Ao Dai can be traced back to 1744 when Vietnam was divided into the Inner Land (Đàng Trong) and Outer Land (Đàng Ngoài). To distinguish his subjects, Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát of Inner Land introduced a five-part dress called “áo ngũ thân,” which consisted of a front-buttoned gown with trousers. This dress served as the inspiration for the modern Ao Dai. The royals and elites crafted their dresses from luxurious silk, embellished with intricate details and vibrant colors that reflected their court rankings.
Fast forward to the 1930s when Vietnamese artist Le Mur Nguyễn Cát Tường simplified the dress into two parts. The front flap of the Ao Dai was extended to reach the ankle, and the overall form became more fitted. Although the new style initially met with some resistance due to its “westernized” influence, it gained popularity after Le Mur designed a collection for Queen Nam Phương, the wife of Vietnam’s last Emperor Bảo Đại. Urban women began embracing and popularizing this contemporary style.
In 1947, after the establishment of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, Hồ Chí Minh expressed concerns that the Ao Dai was not suitable for work in fields or factories. He urged Vietnamese to adapt their attire for greater efficiency. As a result, the Ao Dai became a dress reserved for professional appearances and special occasions. Today, female high school students across the country are required to wear the Ao Dai at least one day a week. The sight of girls in white Ao Dai riding their bicycles to school has inspired numerous Vietnamese songs, poems, and paintings. It has become a timeless symbol of grace and elegance that women of all ages don on important occasions when they want to leave a lasting impression.
TIP: Visit the áo dài collection on permanent display at the Vietnamese Women’s Museum in Hanoi to learn more about the history of the dress and its many variations.
Modern Styles of Ao Dai
Contemporary designers have taken bold steps to reinvent the Ao Dai while preserving its essence. Boat necks, cropped lengths, and short sleeves are just a few of the creative routes explored. These modern twists make the Ao Dai more practical and suitable for less formal settings. Knee-length styles are convenient for wearing while riding motorcycles or bicycles, and the collars have diversified to include scoop neck and boat neck variations, perfect for summer days.
When to Wear Ao Dai
Vietnamese women adore wearing the Ao Dai for stunning photo shoots set against beautiful backdrops. Golden autumn days in Hanoi beckon photo sessions around the enchanting Hoàn Kiếm Lake. During Tết (Lunar New Year), the Ao Dai takes center stage as women wear it to visit friends and family, and pay homage at temples and shrines. A wedding is the perfect occasion to flaunt one’s best Ao Dai. The bride, groom, and wedding entourage will don elaborate Ao Dai during the traditional ceremony, while guests opt for simpler yet equally vibrant designs at the reception.
TIP: For a deeper understanding of the Ao Dai’s significance in Vietnamese fashion, watch the film ‘The Tailor’. This critically acclaimed movie, which was Vietnam’s official entry for Best Foreign Language Film at the 2018 Academy Awards, revolves around an Ao Dai design house in Ho Chi Minh City.
Ao Dai Colors
Each color of the Ao Dai carries its own meaning. In the imperial era, gold was exclusively reserved for kings and queens, symbolizing royalty. Red Ao Dai are worn during Tết to attract luck and prosperity. Wedding couples often choose red Ao Dai for their special day, so guests are advised to opt for different colors. White represents purity and innocence, as seen in the white dresses commonly worn by high school students. Black is predominantly worn at funerals to signify mourning. Additionally, Vietnamese women often select Ao Dai colors based on their birth element (metal, wood, water, fire, or earth), as determined by their year of birth.
Making Your Own Ao Dai
You don’t have to be a fashion designer to wear an Ao Dai. It’s a versatile garment that can be donned for fancy dinners, important meetings, or joyous celebrations. Just remember to pair it with pants or trousers. If you’re looking for a ready-to-wear Ao Dai, you’ll find a plethora of choices at shops in Hanoi’s Old Quarter and the charming Hội An Ancient Town. Hội An’s talented tailors can also create a brand new dress for you in a matter of days. Feel free to personalize your Ao Dai by choosing your preferred style and colors. To truly indulge in the Ao Dai experience, head to Vạn Phúc silk village, located just 20 minutes from Hanoi. There, you can shop for high-quality silk, witness the silk-making process, have your Ao Dai tailor-made, and even take stunning photos amid flowing silk ribbons.
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Note: The original article contained additional content unrelated to the main topic. This markdown adaptation focuses solely on Vietnam’s national dress, the Ao Dai.